New Zealand and South America
Tuesday, December 16, 2003
 
Hola Chicos!

Weīre back in Buenos Aires after much fun and excitement in the South of Argentina. So we were in Puerto Natalis in Chile. We got a bus across the border to a town called El Califate. Itīs a bit of a tourist trap as itīs 70km for the Pierto Moreno Glacier. It is the star attraction of the Park Nacional de los Glaciers. So as soon as we arrived we decided to get out of town. We bumped into Thijs and Olga the really nice Dutch couple we first met halfway up a mountain and when I suggested the idea of hiring a car and driving up Route 40, Thijs (Matthew) seemed keen. So him and I spent a fun 40 mins sorting out the motor while Naomi and Olga booked flights to Beunos Aires and Baraloche respectively for five days later.

The only car left was a Jeep Cherokee I was really unhappy as I wanted a Nissan Micra, but hey what can you do. Thijs drove it round the block and it made a sound like a helicopter. Choppertastic.

By the time all the paperwork was sorted out we decided we couldnīt make it to the glacier so we headed up the road to El Chalten. This is a town of 350 people 220 km up Route 40. It is a climbing mecca, as it is a the base of Mount Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, two of worlds most difficult climbs (apparently) Too be honest we found it difficult enough to find a place to stay when we finally arrived after a bone shaking 5 hour dirt road drive.



I was also slightly worried as we had forgotten to get any money out before we left and there was no bank here. Olga and Thijs assured us that they had enough cash to cover us. Lovely people.

The next day involved a lie in then a quick trek up to a view of a small glacier a little taster for the next dayīs glacier walk.

The glacier trek was amazing. We walked for 2 hours to ībase campī where we picked up our crampons then had another hourīs trek to the base of the glacier. This involved crossing the Rio īCant Rememberī by pulling ourslves along hanging from a pully and rope thingy.



We then donned our crampons and trudged across the glacier. Magic. Then disaster struck! The two arrogant macho up their own backsides guides called lunch! We hadnīt brought any. Everyone was tucking into sarnies except the four of us. We were not happy. We had been walking for 5 hours and hadnīt had any breakfast. I could see a large weather front moving in ready to sit just over our heads. At this point I luckily stood up a gazed at everyone with puppy eyes, in a īAnyone got some biscuits?īkind of way. It worked, we were soon stuffing our faces with left over salami and some Happy Face biccies.
We then did an ice climb which was a little scarey but cool.



The following day we took another walk along the valley to see Mount Fitz Roy. It is the most beautiful walk Iīve ever done. Had a sudden urge to write poetry. Naomi stopped me. For the best I think.

Weīd met some French hikers and they told us of a top notch restaurant in town which we went to in the evening and Thijs and I probably drank too much as we ended up playing darts in a bar with the landlords kid. It was the pisco wot made me do it.

The hotel took Thijs and Olgas dollars and we left and drove to the glacier we missed on the first day. It was spectacular to see chunks of ice the size of busses fall off in to the lake.



The car was sounding really bad now and by the time we got to the airport the transmission was about to vanish. They are dropping the car off today. I hope it lasts for them - they are great guys they donīt deserve my luck with cars.

We flew to BA last night and are now answering emails and generally not walking huge distances with backpacks. Four days to NZ and this is our route so far.....



In conclusion...... you really ought to go to Patagonia, itīs not all walking.
 
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